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Troubleshooting

1. Cannot modify the serial number/device name

Issue Description

Some customers might have issues modifying the serial number/device name when they use a laptop that has an internal camera. The serial number tool will auto detect the internal camera rather than the external UVC camera module, which results in the conflict. Usually, the serial number tool will show the error logs as below:
1. Unknown device
2. Failded to write camera info!

Solution

If you encounter similar issues and run serial number tool on a laptop, please try to disable/uninstall the internal camera in the Device manager, then try the serial number tool in the following link:

2. Camera Detected as USB 2.0 (UVC 2.0) Instead of USB 3.0 (UVC 3.0)

Issue Description

Your camera is being recognized as a USB 2.0 (UVC 2.0) device instead of a USB 3.0 (UVC 3.0) device. This can lead to reduced performance or functionality. This detection is typically observed in:

  • Windows Device Manager: The camera might be listed under "Universal Serial Bus controllers" or "Imaging devices" with a "USB 2.0" designation, or its properties indicate a lower speed.
  • lsusb output (on Linux/macOS): The output shows the device connected at 2.0 speed, or its descriptors indicate UVC 2.0 capabilities despite being a UVC 3.0 capable camera.

Resolution Steps

Please follow these steps to ensure a proper USB 3.0 (UVC 3.0) connection:

1. Verify USB 3.0 Port Connection

  • First, ensure the USB cable is connected to a USB 3.0 port on your computer or host device.
  • USB 3.0 ports are often identified by a blue insert inside the port, or by the "SS" (SuperSpeed) symbol next to it.
  • Important: Connecting to a USB 2.0 port will inherently limit the camera to USB 2.0 speeds, regardless of the camera's capabilities.

2. Reconnect the USB Cable in Specific Sequence

  • This issue often occurs due to the order in which the USB cable is connected. Please follow these steps carefully:
    a. Disconnect from Camera: Carefully unplug the USB Type-C end of the cable from your camera.
    b. Connect Type-A to Host First: Ensure the USB Type-A end of the cable is already securely connected to the USB 3.0 port on your computer or host device.
    c. Connect Type-C to Camera: Now, carefully connect the USB Type-C end of the cable to the camera's Type-C port.

Explanation

Connecting the Type-A (host) side first often allows the host controller to initialize properly before the camera attempts to negotiate its highest possible USB standard. This specific connection order helps the camera and host establish a stable USB 3.0 (SuperSpeed) connection, ensuring it's recognized as a UVC 3.0 device and can operate at full performance.

3. How to Fix Flicker or Banding in Video Streams

This guide will help you understand and resolve the issue of flickering or horizontal banding that may appear in the video feed from your Arducam UVC camera, especially when used under artificial lighting.

1. The Problem: What is Flicker / Banding?

When using your camera indoors, you might notice one of the following visual artifacts in your video stream or images:

  • Banding: Dark or light horizontal bands that continuously scroll through the image.
  • Flicker: A noticeable, rapid variation in the overall brightness of the entire frame.

These two issues are symptoms of the same root cause and are commonly referred to as "flicker."

Example of Banding:

flicker.jpg

2. The Cause: Why is This Happening?

This issue is not a defect in the camera itself. It's a synchronization problem between the camera's exposure settings and the frequency of artificial lights (like fluorescent, LED, or other AC-powered lights).

Here's a simple breakdown:

  • Artificial Lights Aren't Steady: Most indoor lights are powered by Alternating Current (AC), which causes them to pulse on and off very rapidly. Our eyes don't notice it, but a camera sensor does. The frequency of this pulsing is directly related to the local power grid's frequency:

    • In 50 Hz regions (e.g., Europe, China, India, Australia), lights pulse at 100 Hz.
    • In 60 Hz regions (e.g., North America, Japan, Taiwan), lights pulse at 120 Hz.

  • Camera Exposure Catches the Pulse: Your camera's sensor captures light over a specific period, known as the exposure time (or shutter speed). If this exposure time is not perfectly aligned with the light's pulsing cycle, the sensor will capture frames with varying amounts of light.

    • For cameras with a rolling shutter (common in UVC cameras), different parts of the sensor are exposed at slightly different times. This means the top of the sensor might capture the light at its brightest, while the bottom captures it when it's dimmer, creating horizontal bands.
    • For cameras with a global shutter, the entire sensor is exposed at once. The mismatch results in the brightness of the whole frame varying from one frame to the next, causing a visible flicker.

In short, flicker/banding occurs because the camera's "shutter rhythm" is out of sync with the "light's rhythm."

3. The Solution: How to Fix It

The solution is to synchronize your camera's exposure time with the frequency of your local power supply. This can typically be done by adjusting the Power Line Frequency (or Anti-Flicker) setting in your camera control software.

Follow these step-by-step instructions.

Step 1: Identify Your Region's Power Line Frequency

First, determine the power grid frequency where you are using the camera.

  • 50 Hz: Most of Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australia.
  • 60 Hz: North America, parts of South America, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan.

If you are unsure, a quick online search for "power frequency in [your country]" will give you the answer.

Step 2: Access Your Camera's Controls

Open the software you are using to view the camera feed (e.g., the default Windows Camera app, OBS Studio, AMCap, VLC, or a custom application using libraries like OpenCV). You will need to access the camera's configuration settings.

  • On Windows: This is often found under a "Video Capture Filter," "Device Properties," or "Configure Video" menu.

anti-flicker.jpg

  • On Linux: You can use v4l2-ctl from the command line.

Step 3: Adjust the Power Line Frequency (Anti-Flicker) Setting

In the camera control panel, look for a setting named:

  • Power Line Frequency
  • Anti-Flicker
  • Flicker Control

This setting usually has three options:

  • Disabled
  • 50 Hz
  • 60 Hz

Select the frequency that matches your region:

  • If you are in a 50 Hz country, select 50 Hz.

  • If you are in a 60 Hz country, select 60 Hz.

After applying the setting, the flicker or banding in your video stream should immediately disappear. The camera automatically adjusts its exposure time to an interval that is a multiple of the light's pulse cycle (e.g., 1/100s for 50 Hz or 1/120s for 60 Hz), ensuring consistent lighting in every frame.

Manual Adjustment (If Anti-Flicker Setting is Unavailable)

If you cannot find an Anti-Flicker setting, you may be able to solve the problem by manually setting the Exposure Time.

  1. Disable any "Auto-Exposure" mode.
  2. Set the exposure time (shutter speed) to a multiple of your light's pulse duration.
    • For 50 Hz lighting, set exposure to 1/100s (10 ms), 1/50s (20 ms), or 1/25s (40 ms).
    • For 60 Hz lighting, set exposure to 1/120s (~8.33 ms), 1/60s (~16.7 ms), or 1/30s (~33.3 ms).

Start with 1/100s or 1/120s, as these are the most common and effective values.